For perplexing issues like acne, eczema and thinning hair, the OTC personal care marketplace delivers on-demand care for consumers—typically without any professional medical intervention. That’s not to say doctors and dermatologists aren’t suggesting consumers try over-the-counter remedies first. Often, these products can provide relief and, with consistent use, can alleviate issues without the need for a prescription.

During the pandemic, many consumers put off regular doctor appointments. According to “Reports of Forgone Medical Care Among US Adults During the Initial Phase of the COVID-19 Pandemic,” 41% of respondents in a national survey reported forgoing medical care from March through mid-July 2020. In the survey (posted on JAMA Network Open), 29% of the 1,337 respondents missed a preventive care visit, 26% missed an outpatient general medical appointment, 8% missed one or more doses of a prescription medicine typically picked up from a retail pharmacy and 6% missed an elective surgery.

It could have been worse, if not for telemedicine. It exploded in popularity during covid-19’s onset as medical experts from dermatology to psychology sought ways to offer care without having patients in their exam rooms.

The sector has since leveled off. After an initial spike to more than 32% of office and outpatient visits occurring via telehealth in April 2020, utilization levels had largely stabilized, ranging from 13-17% across all specialties, according to a 2021 McKinsey & Company report.

And while consumers see doctors IRL, telemedicine is here to stay. According to McKinsey, 40% of surveyed consumers said they will continue to use telehealth going forward—up from 11% of consumers using telehealth prior to covid-19.


Changing Care

McKinsey contends virtual healthcare models are proliferating and evolving with the times. There’s a shift taking place from “virtual urgent care” to a “range of services enabling longitudinal virtual care, integration of telehealth with other virtual health solutions, and hybrid virtual/in-person care models, with the potential to improve consumer experience/convenience, access, outcomes and affordability,” according to the report.

Evolution is underway at Hims & Hers and Ro, two high-proile telemedicine healthcare companies based in the US.

In Q4 2021, San Francisco-based Hims & Hers added a mobile platform. In January, it hired its first chief growth officer. More recently, it announced that its hair care offerings will be sold by wellness retailer GNC, both online and inside select stores. The GNC product mix includes Hers & Hims hair care products with minoxidil as well as masks, shampoos and conditioners.

GNC follows the company’s retail expansion to Walmart announced earlier this year, and The Vitamin Shoppe in 2021. Today, Hims & Hers has partnerships with more than a dozen retail brands and its health and wellness solutions—spanning from hair care and skincare to supplements and sexual health—can be found in more than 20,000 locations across the US.

“Our mass retail expansion is about building a trusted, nationwide brand for health and wellness products,” said Melissa Baird, chief operating officer of Hims & Hers. “Our partnership with GNC is a continuation of that strategy and we’re excited for consumers to have even easier access to our products.”

Healthcare technology company Ro—which last spring completed a $500 million Series D fundraising round that brought its total to $876 million since it was founded in 2017—unveiled Ro Derm, an initiative in the skincare space that includes a new platform for service and access to customer skincare products through US-licensed healthcare professionals (see side bar, below).

Ro contends that Ro Derm is going to reinvent the old-school dermatologist appointment experience by offering consumers personalized, prescription skincare from the comfort of their home. Dr. Melynda Barnes, Ro’s chief medical officer, told Happi that the company could have a louder voice in skin health, too.

“We know that people are asking for access to specialty care. They are also asking for guidance to cut through some of the noise in the beauty and skin care industry,” she said.

Acne Care Expansion

Before the onset of telemedicine, and online shopping for that matter, consumers simply headed to their local drug store to find products to treat breakouts.

They still do. According to Information Resources, Inc., sales of acne treatments rose 14.6% to $671.8 million for the 52 weeks ending Jan. 23, 2022. Private label revenue growth outstripped that of major category leaders (see chart here).

There’s a wider array of products than ever before for acne sufferers in their teens years and beyond.

Stryke Club—which targets male skin care needs and was created by four moms, one of whom is a board-certified pediatric dermatologist—now offers Knockout Adapalene Gel.

Adapalene is a multi-benefit retinoid that prevents pimples, blackheads, whiteheads and clogged pores plus clears redness and inflammation caused by acne. Studies have shown that compared to other retinoids, Adapalene gel 0.1% causes less irritation to the skin, according to Stryke Club.

“We are so excited to launch our Knockout Adapalene Gel.  It was previously available by prescription only and Stryke Club is very excited to be one of very few brands that can offer this amazing OTC acne treatment product,” Darci Rosenblum, co-founder of Stryke Club, told Happi. “With the addition of this product, we believe we have the most comprehensive acne care line available.”

BalmLabs is another dermatologist-created brand; it was founded by Dr. Robin Schaffran, a Beverly Hills-based dermatologist who was frustrated by the lack of innovation in products available to those suffering from adult acne. The brand’s ClearBalm is a three-step system for adult acne-prone skin that uses a combination of six actives rather than salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide. The regimen includes a lightweight foam cleanser; Power Elixir, described as a pore-refining liquid exfoliant; and Serum Hydrator, which contains niacinamide, squalene and full-spectrum, hemp-derived CBD. It works by rebalancing sebum production, accelerating cell turnover and calming inflammation, according to the company.

Tula Skincare—which was recently acquired by Procter & Gamble—expanded its acne care range with Breakout Breakthrough Maximum Strength Acne Toner Pads. The pads treat acne and prevent future breakouts while helping improve the look of pores as well as balance the skin’s natural pH after cleansing. The pads complement the brand’s Level 3 Acne Clearing Routine. Formulated with salicylic acid, Level 3 includes Keep It Clear Acne Foam Cleanser, Clear It Up Acne Clearing & Tone Correcting Gel and Breakout Star Acne Moisturizer.

“Those with acne-prone skin can suffer from a multitude of different symptoms and side effects that can include everything from pimples, and painful cysts to redness, skin irritation, and even scars and dark marks left from breakouts. Our customers are looking for skin care products that treat the concern without the irritating and drying effects that the harsher ingredients in many acne products can cause,” CEO Savannah Sachs told Happi when the new pads were launched.

For Tula, acne solutions already on the market weren’t cutting it.

“In general, the acne category has seen little innovation around its product offerings,” Sachs insisted.

Tula’s Breakout Breakthrough Maximum Strength Acne Toner Pads are formulated with Tula’s proprietary blend of prebiotics and probiotic extracts known as S6ProComplex, 2% salicylic acid, apple cider vinegar, azelaic acid, niacinamide and willowherb. The pad itself is made from biodegradable bamboo fibers.

In clinical tests, Tula said that after one week, 85% of users agreed that their skin looked healthier and brighter and after four weeks 82% of users stated that their acne was less visible with 85% agreeing that their skin did not feel dry or tight. 

During product development, Tula’s goal was to identify the ingredients that would actively and effectively treat acne and help soothe the skin.

“By incorporating superfoods and probiotic extracts into our acne products, our customers are able to confidently incorporate our acne products into their personalized skin care routines because they know they will not only treat the acne but they will also leave their skin feeling good,” Sachs said.

According to Sachs, as a digitally native omnichannel brand with DTC as a core capability, Tula can take a deep dive into its own coffers for NPD. The brand reportedly collects more than 500K data points a month from its its online skin quiz.

“One of the staggering findings from this quiz is that 50% of customers have shared that they experience acne either occasionally or on a daily basis. Another shocking finding is that we learned from a recent brand survey that 57% of customers feel that acne is not just a teenage concern and an average of 86% of customers aged 13-44 claim that they deal with acne,” she said.

Sachs insists Tula’s approach to acne is to treat the condition holistically.

“We are working to take the shame out of acne by giving customers products that are effective and provide similar benefits to the products in our other skin care franchises,” she said. 


Addressing Eczema

Eczema is another major skin issue that has consumers of all ages seeking relief. In fact, a recent survey of 1,000 participants found that 41% of Americans either have or have someone in their household with eczema. What’s more, consumers increasingly want relief without the use of steroids, which are often prescribed by doctors to quell the angry redness, pain and itch that comes from this condition.

Luxury skin care brand Evereden recently rolled out Healing Eczema Treatment, a non-steroidal treatment for eczema-prone skin and active eczema flareups that contains quercetin. The company contends it is the first skin care brand to use quercetin as a key ingredient in an eczema treatment and one of few to utilize it in skin care.

“Quercetin can be eaten or applied topically and has been shown to exert anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects on the skin. It has been shown to reduce the inflammation seen in eczema and psoriasis, as well as protect against the inflammation and damage induced by ultraviolet light. Topical quercetin has also been shown to reduce itch in human studies. All of these amazing properties lend toward quercetin being a great, natural option to help control eczema,” said Evereden Scientific Officer Dr. Sarina Elmariah, MD, PhD, who is part of the team of Ivy League dermatologists and moms that make up the company’s Moms in Medicine team.

Additionally, Evereden’s Healing Eczema Treatment also contains 1% colloidal oatmeal, ceramides and golden spent barley. 

In a two-week clinical trial, redness and dryness were reduced 98%. In a three-week consumer trial, 98% of moms said their baby’s skin redness was relieved and visibly reduced, 93% said their baby’s itchy and irritated skin was relieved and 90% said their baby’s skin scaliness was smoothed and reduced. The treatment is certified by the National Eczema Association.

“While you can calm eczema and prevent symptom flare ups, there is currently no cure that completely eradicates it. Also, the dry, itchy, irritated skin associated with eczema provokes continuous scratching. Subsequent damage to the skin barrier worsens eczema, creating a vicious itch-scratch cycle,” noted Elmariah.

By the close of 2021, Evereden had raised $32 million in Series C funding. The brand plans to scale expansion into new markets and sales channels, and strengthen its in-house R&D and formulation lab capabilities. This year, Evereden said it will launch globally in select markets at Sephora.

The latest eczema launch from Crown Laboratories’ topical anti-itch brand Sarna is its Eczema Relief Whipped Foam. The moisturizing and light, airy foam delivers fast-acting, maximum strength relief to itchy, eczema-prone skin though 1% hydrocortisone. The formulation is also infused with moisturizing ingredients to help prevent water loss and improve skin’s natural protective barrier.

Josie Maran is also addressing eczema, with the beauty expert’s first OTC-approved formula. Sold under the Argan Apothecary banner, new Intensive Daily Repair Body Butter contains colloidal oatmeal 0.8%, an active FDA-approved OTC skin protectant that delivers immediate hydration and relief of minor skin irritation and itching. The whipped body butter, which also contains aloe leaf juice, shea butter and argan oil, is available at Ulta, Sephora and JosieMaran.com.

In an independent clinical study, 100% of participants saw an improvement in dry, flaky skin and redness after two weeks and 100% showed improvement in skin hydration after just one use, according to Maran. Further, in an independent consumer perception study, after 24 hours, 96% said it immediately moisturizes dry, flaky skin while 90% said skin felt soothed; and after two weeks, 97% said skin felt soothed and calmed, 94% reported relief from minor irritation due to eczema and 94% said it minimized the look of red and rough patches.

Maran was inspired to enter this sector to help her step-daughter who suffers from eczema. But she wasn’t keen on the using prescribed steroids on the young girl’s skin, or formulations that contained ingredients she didn’t like.

A child’s skin issue—and selecting what to use to alleviate the issue—can be especially stressful for parents. They will seek advice from trusted doctors, experienced parents and, well, from almost any one and anywhere they can find it.

Happy Cappy was recently named the “Best Cradle Cap Shampoo” by  a popular parenting website called ScaryMommy.com. 

Cradle cap—seborrheic dermatitis on a baby’s head—is a common condition that affects one in three children under the age of five. Developed by a pediatric physician, Happy Cappy contains pyrithione zinc as well as licorice root extract for soothing support. It is the first medicated shampoo/body wash used specifically for the relief of scalp flaking, scaling and redness associated with seborrheic dermatitis in children of all ages, according to the company. It can be found on Amazon.com. Walmart.com and inside 4,500 Walgreens and buybuyBaby stores.


What’s Old Can Be New Again

When it comes to OTC treatments, there are a host of tried and true remedies, many of which have storied histories. Take, for example, Zincuta Ointment, a treatment initially crafted by Dr. Josiah C. Case (1865-1930). Case’s ointment was said to bring relief and heal a litany of skin afflictions—chafes, burns, sun burns, abrasions, raw sores, insect bites, psoriasis, eczema and poison ivy. Said to be wildly popular, according to local lore, Case’s popular product vanished from shelves in the 1930s.

About 15 years ago, herbalist Donna Penney, who was from the same area of New York as Case, began mixing her own ointment after finding his recipe in the local library. The modern-day Zincuta Ointment, made at The Apotheca in Brooklyn, NY, is based on the original—from the recipe to the packaging. It contains zinc oxide, axungia (which is high in oleic and linoleic acids), styrax benzoin, beeswax, slippery elm bark, wintergreen, lavender and bergamot. Its makers have a patent on the formulation and trademark on the name.

Whether a premium brand or a historically-based, hand-crafted formulation, OTC remedies can help consumers find relief they need.

NEW INGREDIENTS FOR OTC TREATMENTS

Looking for new ingredients to use in your brand’s OTC treatment? Here are options from select industry suppliers. For more information on a particular ingredient, contact the company directly.

Botanicals Plus
Boca Raton, FL
973-439-1417
[email protected]
www.botanicalsplus.com

BP-SA Niacinamide Salicylate Complex
INCI: Salicylic Acid (and) Niacinamide (and) Polydextrose (and) Dextrin (and) Amylopectin
Applications: Acne
Use Level: 1-4%
Comments: BP―SA Niacinamide Salicylate Complex is an effective ingredient in the treatment of sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, and skin with hyperpigmentation– as proven by our clinical studies*. In addition, this remarkable complex is also very effective in scalp care.


Jeen International
Fairfield, NJ
973-439-1401
[email protected]
www.jeen.com

Jeecide CAP-7
INCI: Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Undecylenate
Applications: Emulsions
Use Level: 0.5 0 1.5%
Comments: Jeecide CAP-7 is a preservative-free antimicrobial system. Free of phenoxyethanol, parabens, MITs and formaldehyde releasers. It prevents microbial growth in preservative-free formulations, such as Gram-positive bacteria, Gram-negative bacteria, yeast, and mold. Can be used alone, or in conjunction with traditional preservatives to boost their efficacy. Also has emollient and skin conditioning properties.

Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.
Akron, OH
330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
www.Shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp

USG-1011
INCI name:  Undecane (&) Tridecane and Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Use Level:  Emulsions, 3-25%; Anhydrous, 15-90%
Applications:  Active skin care products; skin whitening products; anti-aging products; acne treatment products, sun care products:  lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners
Comments: USG-1011 is a silicone elastomer gel swollen in a volatile carrier derived from renewable sources.  The elastomer gel offers an exceptional silky, soft and smooth feel during application and dries down to a silky, powdery after feel. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for various oils including low molecular weight organic esters and oils.  USG-1011 leaves essentially no residue on the skin.

USG-1012
INCI:  C 13-15 Alkane (&) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Use Level:  Emulsions, 3-25% ; Anhydrous, 15-90%
Applications:  Skin lotions and creams; skin whitening products; anti-aging products; acne treatment products; sun care products:  lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners
Comments: USG-1012 is a silicone elastomer gel swollen in C13-15 Alkane carrier derived from renewable sources.  The elastomer gel offers an exceptional silky, soft and smooth feel during application and dries down to a silky, powdery after feel. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for various oils including low molecular weight organic esters and oils.  USG-1011 leaves essentially no residue on the skin.

X-25-7055
INCI:  Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (&) Vinyl Dimethicone/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Use Level: Emulsions. 3-25%;  Anhydrous, 15-90%
Applications: Active skin care products; skin whitening products; anti-aging products; acne treatment products; sun care products:  lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners
Comments: X-22-7055 is a C12 alkyl modified elastomer gel swollen in a carrier derived from coconut oil.  The product has a broad spectrum of compatibility with various organic carriers.  It is designed to be a multi-functional sensory enhancer with an exceptional dry, cushiony, silky, smooth feel with no residue.  The elastomer gel is designed to be compatible with organic/natural formulation ingredients and chemical UV filters.  X-25-7055 is an effective thickener for esters, and natural organic oils.  When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. 
  

We are A SUPRAORGANISM Skin microbiota and the holobiont: fascinating discoveries promoting a holistic beauty synonymous with harmony, health, and wellbeing. The microbiota is composed of a well-balanced population of commensal, symbiotic and pathogenic microorganisms. They interact with each other and with human cells. This interaction between a host organism and its microbiota is called the HOLOBIONTE. More than 10,000 DIFFERENT MICROBE SPECIES live in the human body and about 106 microorganisms/cm2 are on the SKIN SURFACE. The MICROBIOME defines the microbial genome. We carry over a hundred times more bacterial genes than human genes. The Holobiont is one of the great trends for 2022. The Human Microbiome Project, supported by the National Institutes of Health, started in 2007. In their first publication in 2019, the team announced the identification of about 24 million bacterial in the mouth microbiome and 22 million in the gut microbiome. The team estimated that the total number of genes in the collective human microbiome, composed of bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and viruses, could be around 232 million. So we humans are mostly microbes! To understand the interactions between the human body and its microbiome, one must consider the ubiquitous nature of host-associated microbes and their role in host biology, ecology, and health, and consider the microbiome as the fourth skin layer, as it significantly impacts the homeostasis and health of other layers, and vice versa. The exposome and internal stress can imbalance this microbiota/organism collaboration and induce damage that affect the skin’s appearance and protective function.  An imbalance is correlated with inflammatory skin issues, barrier function alteration, dryness, etc. The skin microbiota and the holobiont hold a lot of secrets yet to be revealed and represents a plethora of opportunities for the cosmetic industry. Additional Resources: Skin Microbiota, Well-being and Harmony webinar by Sederma Sederma’s microbiota harmony solutions: Ecodermine™, HairSpa™, Sebuless™, Apiscalp™ and coming soon BB-Biont™ REQUEST SAMPLES www.crodapersonalcare.com  SPONSORED CONTENT

Will Ro Derm Shake Up Dermatology Sector?   Healthcare technology company Ro, perhaps best known for its ED treatment brand Roman, rolled out Ro Derm—a gender-agnostic brand dedicated to dermatology-backed prescription products and services. Skin care isn’t new to the New York-based telehealth company; Ro has offered solutions through its Rory (for women) and Ro (men’s) brands. But officials say the launch of Ro Derm is more than a new name and look. Ro Derm’s enhanced customer experience is focused on “democratizing” dermatology. The company’s plan includes product expansion, featuring future non-prescription offerings. Ro Derm debuts with three capstone products  that make up its Custom Rx System, with soon-to-launch expanded product ranges and formulas developed by the brand’s expert dermatologists, including: Custom Rx Treatment (formerly Nightly Defense); Custom Rx System, a three-product set that includes Custom Rx Treatment, Hydrating Cleanser (formerly Antioxidant Face Cleanser) and Protecting SPF Lotion (formerly Weightless Face Moisturizer). Ro's products are available through its dermatologists, not over the counter.